Wire baskets: Handled with flair

Earlier this year, news of renowned fashion brands monetising on Indian handmade products made headlines. Among them was the humble wire koodai (basket), which has been a household craft for decades, albeit an overlooked one. Often seen hung at the doorsteps of rural homes, they are now stepping into the spotlight as a fashionable, functional, and fiercely sustainable accessory. This fusion of tradition and luxury not only shines a light on the artisanal skill behind each piece but also sparks a broader conversation about authenticity, cultural heritage, and the future of sustainable fashion. As these baskets move from village doorsteps to global runways, the craftsmen find new hope and recognition, proving that age-old, rooted traditions can thrive in todays fast-evolving marketplace. Ahead of Handbag Day (October 10) that honours this accessory as an essential item, CE explores the comeback of koodai and explores the life of wire basket weavers and their take on this adaptation of globalisation by high-end brands. Silver lining along the wires Ruth Patricia, founder of Chennai-based online business Handmade Knots recounts how the lockdown in 2020 unintentionally set her on this creative path. I had just finished my MBA and was looking for jobs, but the pandemic paused everything. Around the house, there were these wires my sister had bought, and I thought, why not try making baskets? she shares. Ruth turned to YouTube tutorials and soon found herself immersed in the craft. It became a stress buster and then an obsession. Initially, I made baskets just for family, but when lockdown restrictions eased, people started noticing them on me and asking where to get one. Despite the baskets practicality and beauty, many still viewed them as just a koodai . To shift this mindset, she reinvented the product. I started making handbags, clutches, tote bags, and I coined the tagline Where tradition meets modernity. I wanted these baskets to be a style statement for young people, not just a market staple. For Ruth, handbags are deeply personal: You carry them every day, they reflect who you are, she says, adding that a koodai handbag can do the same while celebrating tradition. Over the past few years, Ruth has built a boutique-like brand, offering custom designs in vibrant colours and unique shapes. Interestingly, she notes, Foreign buyers are showing more enthusiasm than many Indians. Its a new product for them, and they appreciate the craftsmanship. Her approach also embraces sustainability alongside modernity waste wires from basket-making become tassels or keychains, giving new life to scraps, resulting in minimal waste. In March 2025, she launched a free YouTube course to teach this craft, hoping to empower enthusiasts across India and preserve a tradition. A hobby turned business In Periyanaickenpalayam, Coimbatore, resides Bhuvaneswari, a 47-year-old who seized the opportunity to learn the art of basket weaving at a young age. She leads Koodai Kalanjiyam, a family-supported enterprise that transformed her childhood curiosity into a thriving business. I started weaving baskets at 13, inspired by my neighbours, she says. Back then, it was a hobby, making gifts for family functions. My family motivated me to turn it into a business and take it online. Now, orders flow steadily, especially for return gifts. The ban on plastic covers has also boosted demand. Bhuvaneswaris operation employs around 20 women mostly uneducated homemakers aged between 35 and 55 who balance household responsibilities and weaving. I visit those interested in learning within a five-kilometre radius and train them for ten days. They quickly pick it up and become independent, she says. For these women, Its more than a business; it offers peace of mind and empowerment for them, which in turn provides us job satisfaction. Her favourite product, the Amla knot koodai, remains a bestseller, appreciated for its sturdiness and traditional charm. Yet, Bhuvaneswari is mindful of evolving modernity. Teachers usually request handbag-style baskets rather than traditional ones. Were innovating to meet these demands. She adds that this is a small sign of how the koodai has found a new place on peoples arms, not just in their homes. A passion project A beacon of perseverance, Rekha Shivashankar from Erode established her business, Rekhas Wire Bags, in 2018. Having learned wire weaving from her mother, Rekha reignited her interest during the pandemic, recognising a rising need for eco-friendly alternatives to plastic covers. Operating online for five years, Rekha has expanded her reach by putting up stalls in Goa, Gurgaon, and Coimbatore. She employs women outside her hometown, encouraging their individuality. I have directly employed ten women across Tamil Nadu who further work with a few other women in their neighbourhood to complete the tasks. Her products range from affordable return gifts priced around `100 to larger baskets costing up to `2,500. While demand varies, Rekha notes consistent interest from individual customers and bulk buyers alike. I source materials from a small business in Madurai that has been travelling with me since my businesss inception. I stick to their materials as they are easy to weave and readily available in the colours I require, she says. Emphasising that this craft has to be taught to children as a hobby for them to know about its existence, she says, These skills arent taught in schools or passed down enough. If children learn early in summer camps or as a hobby, the tradition can continue. Weaving futures As high-end brands embrace wire basket bags, for Ruth, this signals growing acceptance: People are finally seeing that these baskets can be stylish, durable, and environmentally friendly. But she cautions, Authenticity depends on the artisans. Mass production cant replicate the skill, patience, and love woven into each piece. Bhuvaneswari concurs, saying that valuing the craft not just as a product but as a livelihood, empowering women often sidelined in the workforce. Still, she voices frustration over consumer attitudes: People dont respect the craft when we make it, but theyre willing to pay high prices for the same products sold by luxury brands. Why not buy directly from us? Were accessible on social media and offer fair prices. Rekha acknowledges that such commercialisation comes with higher marketing and operational costs but stresses the importance of keeping prices accessible. My concept is affordability. I can also quote a higher price, but I would rather everyone be able to buy my products. She also expresses concern about the authenticity of the big brand products: Mass-produced items may lack the unique knots and craftsmanship of handmade products. As we celebrate Handbag Day, these women remind us that what we carry can carry meaning too culture, community, and care. In an age dominated by disposable bags and synthetic alternatives, the distinctive craft of koodai is quietly reclaiming its place. Once seen merely as a humble market bag or a grannys handiwork, these wire baskets have evolved into versatile, stylish accessories that marry durability with tradition. This craft is no longer just a basket; its a statement woven with skill, history, and hope.