From oho to boho: Exploring Onam fashion

With Onam round the corner, the seasons shopping whirlwind has already begun. Whether its for college events, office festivities, family gatherings, or that perfect Instagram post, this years fashion spread appears to offer more choices than ever. This year, fashion is a beautiful mix of nostalgia and reinvention, offering something for every mood and generation. There is a real boom in the Onam market this year, says designer Treesa Josh. It feels like a creative race, in the best way, with every label putting its own stamp on tradition. For her latest line, Treesa collaborated with the weavers of Chendamangalam, blending their handlooms with malai mul chanderi, a softer, fluid fabric now popular in Kerala. People do want to experiment, but when it comes to Onam, many still want that classic off-white and gold. So we kept the traditional kasavu sari with handwork but also added modern, comfortable wrap-style kurtas. Actor and designer Poornima Indrajith, founder of Pranaah, echoes the Onam boom observation. This year is unlike anything we have seen before, she says. It feels like Onam arrived early. By June, people were already asking about our Onam collection, and by July, brands across Kerala had started launching theirs. There seems to be a whole new approach to Onam fashion. Pranaahs new collection, Onam Carnival, is a nostalgic celebration, telling the story of a village filled with paddy fields, balloon sellers, toffee jars, toy buses, carousels, and the beat of the thavil elements that recall the 80s Onam market. Our 2024 Balyam collection was a hit, and this line continues that idea. People love those small, familiar details that take them back to childhood. The response has been great, Poornima adds. She believes Keralas fashion scene is in an exciting phase. Designer wear is no longer exclusive. People now have access to beautiful pieces at various price points, she says. The real joy lies in keeping the essence and authenticity alive, while still letting tradition evolve. Pranaah Onam collection My Designation Gen Z label, My Designation, returns this Onam with some standout pieces. The line features shirts with mural-inspired designs, a Vadamvali embroidered shirt and sari that can be worn as a pair, a pure white shirt with subtle golden shimmer incorporating elements like chenda, nettipattam, and pookkalam, as well as the Clash of Titans print that brings Kathakali and Theyyam into a dramatic face-off. The brand also offers mural T-shirts for kids. For a minimal yet classy look, the Vadamvali shirt is perfect. For louder, festive vibes, the mural shirts stand out. For vibrant events, the Clash of Titans print is the top pick. We have designed something for every occasion, says the team. People now seek premium, unique pieces that tell a story expressive fashion that helps them stand out. Talking of stories, designer Revathy Jayan Babu has introduced a collection inspired by abharanam (traditional ornaments). Her designs incorporate jewellery-inspired motifs into sari prints, enhanced with intricate handwork. Featuring large prints and darker blouses and shirts, the collection channels a celebratory vibe. People are now asking for combos, she says. Saris paired with matching shirts for men and kids are trending. Menswear, too, has evolved. Instead of just plain mundu, men are now demanding stylish variations. Salt Studio, known for contemporary fashion, aims to add a playful twist to traditional Onam wear, moving away from the usual big floral prints. While brainstorming, we thought of a Bohemian-inspired Onam, says Diya John, the labels founder. We added elements like shells, tassels, and hanging threads, but I didnt want the typical ethnic blouse with that. So we contemporised it with crop tops and long jackets with statement sleeves. Even in the weave, we experimented with bold colours using the thick-weft technique, in collaboration with Chendamangalam weavers. They also upcycled materials to create matching jewellery, hair accessories, and belts for a free-spirited, Boho-inspired Onam look. Kerala is becoming a mature fashion market. With online exposure and travel, people now understand fashion and recognise quality. Traditionally, we preferred minimal designs and jewellery, but now maximalism is trending bold prints, layered jewellery, and statement pieces, says Diya. Salt Studio Southloom Southloom is making a statement with the pink lotus this Onam, incorporating the motif through prints, embroidery, and weaving on kasavu saris. Their budget-friendly collection features mul cotton saris with Kerala-style borders in kasavu in a range of colours. In menswear, the focus is on Kathakali and Theyyam-inspired motifs on colourful printed shirts paired with mundu. Younger generations seek to balance style and comfort, so we focused on that, says Southloom founder Raj Baiju. The preference for bright colours has also grown. Earlier, a man in pink would be mocked, but thats not the case anymore. Rouka, meanwhile, presents When the branches meet the roots a celebration of nostalgia and modernity. The collection draws on imagery of birds, trees, fruits, and flowers, rendered in a contemporary style. We are like branches, always reaching for something new, but its the roots that hold us, says Sreejith Jeevan, the labels founder. So we worked with traditional handloom and kasavu, using a palette of white, ivory, black, and green to express motifs deeply rooted in our culture. He adds that people now seek pieces that are classy, contemporary, and modern, yet timeless outfits they can reuse and restyle in different ways. Well, as we wrap up, one thing is clear: while handloom remains the anchor of Onam fashion, theres a strong undercurrent of experimentation. Verve and versatility are the key words. Rouka